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TRIESTE Where Italy Meets Vienna — and Nobody Agrees on How to Order Coffee Trieste is Italian, but it doesn't always eat like Italy. Sitting on the Adriatic, with Slovenia just around the corner and Austria never far from its history, this is a city where espresso meets apple strudel, seafood shares the table with sauerkraut, and a plate of pasta might be followed by something involving cinnamon, walnuts and rum. The architecture feels Viennese. The sea is unmistakably Mediterranean. The...

NAPOLI Where Lunch Starts Cooking Before Breakfast Napoli doesn't do subtle particularly well. The streets are loud. The coffee is strong. The scooters appear to regard traffic laws as light suggestions. And somewhere, almost constantly, something smells very, very good. Tomato. Garlic. Pizza hitting a hot oven. Ragù simmering behind an open window. In Napoli, food isn't something happening quietly in the background. It's part of the noise. 1. The Pizzaiolo Became Cultural Heritage Napoli...

TORINO Where Aperitivo Grew Up Torino doesn't eat like most Italian cities. There's something slightly more elegant about it. Maybe it's the grand cafés, the arcades and the old Savoy court. Or perhaps it's because this is a city that gave us vermouth, gianduja chocolate and an extremely civilized habit of drinking before dinner. The cooking underneath all that polish, though, is unmistakably Piedmontese: butter, anchovies, veal, hazelnuts, stuffed pasta and sauces with enough flavour to...